Sambucus Racemosa

Liberty1It’s been a long time coming, but here it is at last; my first Liberty dress!

When Mimolette went to London, she was kind enough to take my order and bring me back two pieces of Liberty from Shaukat: 1,50m of this orange Fitzgerald and 1,50m of purple Ros. I had never sewn with Liberty before and was pretty curious to see what the hype was all about. I still can’t really get behind the price, but it’s true that it’s by far the softest and nicest cotton to work with I’ve ever used. The only downside is that it’s quite transparent. Not too much for a blouse, but I might have to wear a half slip with this dress.

Liberty7The fabric was a dream to work with and it was my second time sewing this pattern (the Sureau dress by Deer&Doe), so why did it take me so much time to finish? Well, the first thing is, I made a couple of modifications: I changed the sleeves of the Sureau for those of the Bleuet, which was actually not complicated at all, and above all I changed the fake button placket into a functional one that buttons all the way down.

Also, I added side-seam pockets, and after completing them I realised they were lower than I had anticipated. And of course I had French seamed everything (yes, you can French seam side-seam pockets!) so there was no way I was going to undo that. Being the drama queen that I am, I decided if the dress was not going to be perfect, there was no point in finishing it.

Liberty3So it hung on a hanger for a while, until I realised it was not that big a deal and the dress would still be perfectly wearable, especially since, even though aesthetically they seemed a bit low the pockets were actually at the right place for me to put my hands in them. And now that I look at the pictures, they don’t even seem too low to me anymore. How to make a mountain out of a molehill.

Liberty4Then my iron died on me. It began overheating (to the point of literally melting a few centimetres of the serger thread in this dress – luckily at a sleeve hem, where there was also some normal thread holding everything together) then it simply stopped working… and broke water on a pair of trousers! Like, all the water from the container suddenly started leaking through the sole holes. I had to buy a new one, which I didn’t want to do in a hurry and take the first Made in China crap I found, so once again my Liberty dress hung unattended for a while, only missing a hem, and ten buttons and buttonholes (it’s funny how I had no idea how many buttons this dress was going to need when I made my sketch, yet I drew ten!).

Liberty5But I found the iron of my dreams (and of my wallet’s nightmares!) and I was finally able to finish the dress, albeit not without another couple of concerns: first I had to add a tiny press stud between two pairs of buttons (bust and waist) to avoid gaping (worked like a charm!). Then, when I first tried the finished dress on, I realised the neckline, which I had staystitched and understitched, had apparently stretched out despite my precautions: the neckline, which fit perfectly right in my first version of the dress, was gaping like crazy and the facing was trying to escape, the horror!

Liberty6I topstitched the neckline, which cured part of the problem (the right side of the neckline now looked perfect), but the left side was still gaping too much to my taste. I was kind of devastated, then I had the idea of stitching a line of gathering thread on top of the topstitching of the left side and simply gathering (and then pressing into submission) the excess fabric. You can imagine my delight when I tried the dress on again and saw that the neckline finally fit! Now, I must say that, with a solid fabric, this little trick would probably have been much more conspicuous, but with such a busy print, I don’t think anyone’s going to notice anything!

Liberty8I’m in love with the finished dress, which is pretty much exactly how I envisioned it, and I feel like it’s going to get at least as much wear as my first Sureau! And I haven’t really considered the colour orange these past few years, but this Liberty print really makes me long for an orange sweater or cardigan to go with the dress…



72 thoughts on “Sambucus Racemosa

  1. Ce look te va HYPER bien. Je ne sais pas dire pourquoi, mais j’ai l’impression que ça change fortement de “d’habitude”. Peut-être les cheveux un peu plus longs, les talons ou les bottes hautes … Bref, j’adore 🙂

    • Ouhlàlà, n’en jetez plus! 😀 N’empêche, c’est très étrange, j’ai l’impression que mes cheveux poussent à une vitesse grand V ces derniers temps (normalement ils poussent plutôt lentement)…

  2. Ouaouh, elle est sublime! Les modifications que tu as faites sont vraiment bien, j’aime beaucoup le boutonnage. Ca valait le coup de s’accrocher pour la finir !

    • Merciiiii! 🙂 Je suis à la limite du handicap en mathématiques et représentation dans l’espace, donc j’ai eu un peu de mal à réaliser cette bande de boutonnage toute simple, mais j’avoue que je suis plutôt contente du résultat!

  3. Mamamia!! Qu’est-ce qu’elle te va bien cette robe!! Et je suis toujours aussi fan du motif du tissu!!
    Et puis alors quelle allure avec les bottes!! Pinaise!! Fais gaffe parce que demain, au détour du rayon scie du Brico, je pourrais bien décider de te voler ces gambettes de rêve!!! Mouah ah ah (frankenstein style hi hi hi).
    Tu as bien fait de t’accrocher le résultat en vaut vraiment la peine et la forme toute mignonne de la robe c’est tout à fait toi!! Bon Ben manque plus que le cardigan orange alors!! Hi hi hi
    Des bisous!!

    • Héhéhé, merci pour ces menaces/compliments! 😉
      Et ce cardigan orange sera mien, j’en fais serment! Je m’y attaque dès que j’ai terminé mon pull actuel et écoulé la laine que j’ai en stock pour les deux prochains du même style! Bref, dans une éternité! :-/
      À demain! 🙂

  4. Superbe! J’adore et on sait que je n’aime vraiment pas le orange en principe. Elle est trop belle. J’aime beaucoup la hauteur des poches, ça allonge ta silhouette quand tu y enfonces tes mains. En fait tu as l’air méga grande comme ça 😀

  5. So pretty! I love the sleeves and the button placket! Sigh, I struggled with the fit of my Sureau dress for two weeks. I made two muslins, today I finished the actual dress, convinced that finally everything was right, and when I tried it on I couldn’t believe what I saw. Some neckline gape magically appeared; I could just cry! I’ve now put it aside as an UFO, I just can’t look at it anymore! Maybe I should try your gathering idea later, when I’ve calmed down 😉

  6. This is super cute and I love the fabric. I’ve also always wondered about the hype behind this fabric so it was nice to hear your take. I still think it’s a bit pricey. But your dress turned out wonderfully. I think an orange cardigan sounds like a perfect project 🙂

    • It’s a bit pricey indeed!
      And I’m already looking for the perfect yarn for my future orange cardigan (which will have to wait until I finish the sweater I’m working on at the moment and at least another one)!
      Thank you for you comment! 🙂

  7. Very pretty indeed! This will look so pretty with sandals too, in warmer weather. I think only other sewists would have envy at the phrase ‘finding the iron of my dreams’ 🙂

    • Hahaha, “finding the iron of my dreams” might sound pretty lame to non-sewists! 😀
      I don’t know that I’ll wear the dress with sandals because I usually feel self-conscious in short dresses without tights. :-/ But you’re right, the dress would look pretty, so who knows? 🙂

  8. Your dress and your writing are both superb! Well done for finishing despite that litany of problems. I like wearing orange, either a burnt orange in the winter or a bright sunny one in the summer. It works well with a surprising number of other colours.
    Out of interest, which iron did you choose? I have a love/hate thing with irons and am always curious about what’s out there.

    • Ooooh, thanks! 🙂
      I used to love orange when I was a teenager, but it’s literally been years since I’ve bought/sewn anything in that colour!
      About the iron, I splurged and bought myself one of those.

  9. Elle est vraiment ravissante ta robe ! J’aime beaucoup l’idée d’ajouter les manches de la Bleuet. Et merci pour le tuto des coutures anglaises avec des poches, je me disais bien que c’était possible mais mon esprit logique me fait toujours défaut !

    • Ouhlà, ne me parle pas d’esprit logique, j’ai même eu un mal fou à me représenter le montage de la parementure et de la nouvelle bande de boutonnage et j’ai dû faire moult simulations avant d’être certaine de tout monter dans le bon sens! Donc ces coutures anglaises avec des poches, personnellement je pensais simplement que c’était impossible! 😀
      Merci pour ton commentaire! 🙂

  10. Très jolie robe !
    (et on ne me changera pas, la première chose que j’ai fait en voyant cet article, c’est faire une recherche google sur le titre, juste pour voir de quelle plante il s’agissait)

    • Ah, j’ai eu du mal à le trouver ce titre, puis je me suis dit que le nom d’une sous-espèce du sureau aux baies rouges conviendrait bien à cette variation de la Sureau!
      Merci pour ton commentaire! 🙂

  11. Elle est vraiment super jolie ! Heureusement que ça se finit bien cette histoire, quand on lit tout les déboires que tu as eus !
    Et je suis très agréablement surprise de voir que les manches de Bleuet vont si bien à Sureau !

    • Merci beaucoup!
      Je viens de répondre à ton commentaire sur T&N, et je te rajoute ici que si tu agrandis les photos, tu peux y discerner les fronces du buste. Je dis bien discerner, je les vois parce que je sais qu’elles sont là! 😀

  12. Si tu savais ce que le traducteur instantané Google me racontait….tu serais morte de rire ! Bon, ceci dit, j’ai à peu près tout bien suivi….de tes retouches à ton fer….et tu peux être fière comme tout, elle est super jolie, jolie comme tout….en liberty ( moi non plus, je n’achète pas de liberty, bien trop cher ! )….t’es toute mimie dedans !

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