Flamingos!

I. LOVE. THIS. DRESS.

I love it so much that I almost didn’t dare starting to wear it! I finished it about ten days before my travel to Spain, so I decided to save it for the travel and didn’t wear it before we left. Once in Spain, we spent a week in Madrid and I didn’t wear it because I wanted to save it for later. Then we arrived at the village where we spent the rest of the holiday… and I didn’t wear it because I felt it was too fancy for the village! So more than a month after finishing it, I hadn’t worn it even once!

Once we got back to Belgium, I kept postponing the first outing of this poor dress: it was not even that I feared damaging it; the problem was that I was afraid to wear it and realise it was not comfortable or didn’t fit as well as I thought or some other letdown and be disappointed. Don’t worry, I have since come to my senses and started to wear it! And it is comfortable, and it does fit as well as I thought it did! 😀

Which it should, since I made a muslin, but still, I was worried! I rarely make muslins. I know, I know, boo me! But I always check the measurements of the pattern and usually baste the garment together to check and correct the fit before I sew it for real. When in doubt, I also use fabrics that I like, so that I can wear the finished garment if it’s a success, but that I won’t cry over if things don’t work out the way they should.

But this fabric, ah, this fabric! I don’t remember where I first saw it, but it was out of stock, so I hunted it down for months (maybe years?) until I came upon it at the late Fabric Rehab. I bought enough to sew a Deer&Doe Belladone, which was what I wanted it for in the first place. When it arrived I realised it was thinner than what I had expected (I was expecting more of a quilting cotton and it is a poplin), so into the stash it went until I found a pattern that would be worthy of such a dreamy piece of fabric.

The pattern I bought on Etsy: it’s a vintage pattern, Woman W388. I loved the simplicity of it and thought such a simple silhouette would suit various fabrics from my stash, including and starting with my precious flamingo fabric. I was a bit bewildered when I opened the envelope to see that it was an unprinted pattern: quite surprising since I’d say it dates from the early sixties! But then I thought it would be nice to try my hand at an unprinted pattern for the first time with what seemed to be a pretty easy one. And it was!

I soon learned unprinted patterns are in fact no more difficult to use than printed ones. In case you’ve never used one, there are holes of different shapes in lieu of printed markings, that’s all there is to is. There’s a key to which shape means what (notches, darts, grainline…) in the instructions, but you don’t even really need it as it’s intuitive enough to be understood just by looking at the pattern pieces if you’ve ever used any pattern, printed or otherwise, before.

So I set out to trace the pieces and sew a muslin of the bodice. This first draft looked horrendous on me! The first obvious problem was that it was much too big. I took off 1 cm at each side seam (4 cm total) and things started to look more promising. I then shaved off between 1 and 1,5 cm from the top of the front piece and between nothing and 1,5 cm from the top of the back piece. I also cut a 2,5 cm wedge off the bottom of the back piece and tadaaa, perfect fit! Okay, maybe not perfect, but as perfect as I can achieve with my meagre fitting knowledge! I’m still debating whether that wedge I took off the bottom of the back piece should have been 2 cm instead of 2,5 cm and have not reached a definite conclusion yet.

The skirt didn’t need any fitting as it’s so full, plus I didn’t even use the skirt of the pattern, for which I didn’t have enough fabric. I made a simple gathered skirt, as full (the width of the fabric) and long as I could with the fabric I had left after having cut the bodice, straps and bias tape. Two widths of bias tape are used for this pattern: a smaller one for the little bows (ah, the little bows!) and a wider one to finish the neckline:

The pattern has you sew the straps inside the bias binding at the back (which I did) and then adjust the straps at the front and stitch them on top of the bias binding. I didn’t like that so I reopened the binding at the front placement of the straps after I had settled on a strap length and hid the strap ends inside. It’s much cleaner/prettier like that.

Another simple deviation from the pattern was the addition of pockets. I hesitated between side seam pockets and patch pockets and opted to use these cute rounded patch pockets I borrowed from a late 1950s robe pattern I had in my stash (McCall’s 4319). I think these pockets look lovely on that dress, so I think I’ve made the right decision.

Although I am one of those annoying people who can’t wait for autumn to start, I must say I’m going to be a bit sad to say goodbye to this summer dress for so many months (this might leave me enough time to find a well-fitting strapless bra to wear with it though, who knows? 😉). I am trying to get as much wear as I can out of it while it’s still possible. I once again took the pictures for this blog post coming home from work and this is the outfit I wore that (rainy) day… Minus a cardigan of course!

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12 thoughts on “Flamingos!

  1. Je me reconnais tout à fait dans ton introduction: certains vêtements prennent des mois à être mis une première fois, souvent parce que je crains pour le confort et que je les trouve trop “voyants”.

    Comme je l’avais déjà dit sur Instagram, je trouve cette robe superbe !

    • Encore merci! 🙂 Je n’oublie pas ma promesse: je te décalque le patron du corsage dès que je peux!
      Pour ce qui est de ne pas oser porter certains vêtements pendant si longtemps, ça m’arrive assez rarement heureusement, mais c’est vrai que j’ai toujours une toute petite dose du même stress avant de porter pour la première fois un vêtement que j’ai fait: et s’il n’était pas confortable? Et s’il me boudinait? Et si j’avais l’air con dedans?… En gros, et s’il était raté en fait?! 😀 C’est bête quand même!

  2. This dress is absolutely lovely. I loved the images on Instagram as you were working on it. I too find myself guilty of saving clothes because I want to wear it for the perfect occasion. Lol 😀

  3. Such a pretty dress. So beautifully made as well.
    I too have a dress that I made last summer that I haven’t worn yet for fear of it being too fancy / not appropriate for a range of events. I need to get over that and just wear it!!

  4. Awesome dress! I love the teeny tiny bows and the patch pockets. The fit looks really good too so I wouldn’t worry about specific fitting knowledge. Your natural instinct has worked well.

  5. I noticed (because I was looking for it) that you didn’t match the pattern across the side seams or at the pockets. Was this a deliberate choice? I recently made a matching pencil skirt and peplum top in a large-scale floral, and I wasn’t sure if it was worthwhile to try matching the print. Ultimately I decided not to because it would have taken more time and I didn’t have access to more of the fabric if I messed up the cutting, but I’m curious how others make the call when it’s not something like stripes or plaid.

    • You know what? I didn’t even think about matching the side seams! I did think about it for the pockets, but I preferred not to both for the pockets to ‘pop’ more against the background of the skirt and because I liked the idea of featuring some of the cutest flamingos on the pockets.
      Now thinking about matching the side seams with such a large scale print, I don’t think I would have been able to with the length of fabric I had. It’s something I wouldn’t have considered even for a second NOT doing with plaid or stripes, but with this busy and irregular print I’m not sure it’s noticeable enough that I would have bothered had I had enough fabric and thought about it… If there had been a seam at centre back, I would probably have, but at the side seams, I don’t think so. Come to think of it, would it even be possible to match seams that are not straight with such prints? I’m thinking it wouldn’t… So once again, centre back, yes, side seams, nope! 😀

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